Stops: Poto Tano Port, Rumah Kenawa, Bukit Pototano Communications Tower, Pantai Lampu, Pantai Pasir Putih (Days 93-94)

The weather was grey as we pulled into port on the ferry from Lombok. Spent about thirty minutes in the harbor waiting, then disembarked just in time for the clouds to open up. But, my “homestay” at Rumah Kenawa was just five minutes walk, so not too wet. Not even a one light town. No traffic lights. But there were two convenience stores along the way. Lots of truckers and buses wait their turns on the ferries.

Rumah Kenawa was hard to book, but was one of only two accommodations I could find–and the other looked dire. No online booking companies. No credit card reservations. Just WhatsApp text messages (yes, I finally had to knuckle under and install WA) and cash bank transfer prepayment. Trying to figure out how to wire money to a local Indonesian bank was another episode in task-based language learning, but I got it done. So, I was wondering what I was in for. Wow! It is two new-built designer apartments. Nice living room, bedroom, fancy stone bath, a full kitchen, and front and back porches. All for just under 30USD per night! And, a small herd of goats ambled down the street right after I arrived. Perfect. I immediately asked to extend from two nights to four and it was OK.

The rain let up and I wandered around a bit. It doesn’t take much to see most of this little port and fishing village. There were a few stalls selling noodles along the road, but only one restaurant was open. Lucky for me it was good. At Rumah Makan Surabaya Bu Lies, I stuffed myself.
A plate of rice with veggies cooked with ginger and a little beef, peceling (steamed greens and sprouts with a spicy peanut sauce, maybe acar?) tasty, sweet and crunchy, fried tempeh, beef, and a red marinated boiled egg. Enak sekali!

The next day, I got up early and went for a short hike out the back door of the hotel. The property extends way up the rocky, deforested hill behind. They are walling it in nicely in stone–not concrete panels. Clearly they have bigger plans for this place. The hill was steep, but I knew the views from the top would show me everything and it was a glorious sunny day. Though hot, even by 9 am.

You can see the whole settlement, beaches, and outlying islands from up here. Looks like it used to be an island with maybe a tidal or marshy land bridge, but now there is a causeway to further down the peninsula. On each side, there enclosed semi tidal areas that are maybe fish farms, maybe to be reclaimed land. There is a whole section (which I walked through in the dark last night) of identical, government-built housing very low to the sea on the east side. Perhaps, people resettled from elsewhere, bu that could be kind of a touchy subject and my Indonesian is nowhere near good enough for that yet. Similar collections of low end housing in the Padang area were for people brought in from elsewhere and relations with the locals, can be….

The scramble to the top was fine. And, the views and fresh breezes at the top were excellent. I am not crazy enough to try to scramble back down. Took the stairs. But even here, gotta watch out. Pretty treacherous to have sand and small gravel on very, very steep concrete steps graded to drain water. Arrived at the bottom intact and with a mission. Go to all of those places I saw.

After a cool drink and a break, I headed back towards the port. Skirt the security fence and cut through the police station parking lot to the well-worn path fishermen take out to the Lighthouse Beach. But, there were no fishermen yet! Private beach again. It was so nice, I forgot to take many pictures. Just walking the length of the beach and back and going for a swim.

Nobody.

Tempting. Clearly other have had no qualms about climbing the lighthouse, but who would find me?

Lonely mangrove.

This guy. Not a sea urchin, but spiky.

Back to the hotel for lunch and a siesta. Stopped at the convenience store and they had trays of pre-cut, fresh fruit, which appealed to my lazy side. These fortified me for the next step. Gotta reach the other beach, Pantai Pasir Putih, too!

Melon, dragon fruit, yoghurt, and plenty of water.

I went out again around 4:30 to head down the peninsular and west to the big beach. Skip the worst of the heat and be there for sunset over Mt Rinjani in Lombok was the plan. Clouds rolled in so no volcano view, but a very long beach with cattle, a fishermen’s shack at the south end, a small cluster of bungalows, some horses, and a whole ‘nuther stretch of beach to myself at sunset.

Twenty-three kilometers. Whew! Getting in shape for some trekking–urban or nature. Next stop: a three island tour.