Back in Medan (Tjong a Fie House, Jalan Kesawan. Days 34-35)

Moving on from Aceh and Pulau Weh brought me back to Medan. It’s the hub for all transit. I will be passing through here again. So, it is good that I have my routine sorted out: stay at the Kama Hotel and dinner at The Tip-Top Lunchroom and Restaurant.

After the wilds of palm trees, I wandered back down the block of old colonial shop houses to one of the top landmarks of the city Tjong a Fie House. I had visited for an afternoon my first week in Medan. Rare to see such a well-preserved house like this. It is full of historic photos. Medan happened here.

It also draws a ton of Instagrammers and this guy to try a little more sketching.

There is a convenient bench across the street that gives a good angle. I had to wait for it to open up, but in the afternoon it is in the shad and the subject is in the light. Perfect. There is a lot going on: architectural detail, lush plants in the garden, wrought iron fencing, posts and beams of the traditional gate. It’s a lot.

Here is my initial sketch on A4 with a 0.5 Staedtler liner.

And, with some color.

As I sat and worked, a lot of people stopped by. Cars and motorcycles stuck in traffic. I’d hold up the pad and get a thumbs up. A group of high school boys out for a run stopped by. The tukang parkir who often sat on the bench circled back many times. Security guard from the ATM. Street sweeper. Three speed freak beggars. A group of ladies off a tour bus. Everybody you can imagine.

This was one of the things that had held me back and I had had some anxiety about. Sitting there sketching a landmark, fumbling, false starts, some success, some failure. It was all so public. Even though so much of the urban sketching idea is everyone can do it and don’t worry. I did not think I was ready to be observed and interact with people. I wasn’t “good enough.” Baloney. People are really nice. Even if you’re work is not (yet) that good.

Then, someone approached and in English asked, “May I join you?”

I hastily cleared a bunch of my crap off half the bench and made room. He sat down, opened his bag and looked over. “So, you’re a sketcher?” he asked. I still kind of hemmed and hawed. Jarid (sp?) got out his book, fountain pen, and a small palette and got to work. He was done in about ten minutes! He showed me some of his earlier sketches. He draws and watercolors in and around the house and garden a lot. I surreptitiously picked up a few ideas out of the corner of my eye. But, basically we just sat side by side and worked at it. He packed up and got ready to go, “You’re learning. You’re learning.” he said.

You meet the nicest people sitting on a bench with a sketchpad.

I went back the next afternoon and tried again. Mixed results, but the whole idea here is to learn and get comfortable and make some mistakes not masterpieces. I’m getting there. And, again. All kinds of people stopped by.

Different subject from the same house. Gate with lots of posts and staggered tiled roof is hard!

I was getting ready to call it an afternoon, when another guys stopped by. Serious photographer. He had a big bag, big Nikon around his neck. Big lenses. The whole shebang. I thought he wanted me to move so he could get a shot. Nope. Andi was a journalist from Waspada and wanted to photograph me sketching the old buildings in Medan. Partly I am a curiosity, but also people in Medan are proud, and this place is one of the best examples of why it is attractive. So, I got out a pen and added a few bits and bobs for some action photos.

Don’t think I made the paper, but good selfie!

The thing I did not expect from doing this kind of art was how social it was. People really took an interest. The work itself is not that great, but people enjoyed watching. It put a smile on their faces, and as a result on mine, too. It really made me happy and I think it made a few other people happy as well.