Masjid Baiturrahman Banda Aceh (Day 21)

This mosque is the heart and center of the city. My hotel was just around the corner, but I did not go in the first couple of days. It was Friday, and then Saturday was a holiday. So, I saved it for the morning of the last day before check out–go early before the heat sets in. And, this mosque was a little bit intimidating.

Aceh has a deep history of nationalism and a sometimes violent independence movement against the rest of Indonesia. People are proud. They also tend to be very observant Muslims. As part of a settlement agreement with the central government, Aceh has a lot of autonomy and has chosen to use that to implement Shariah law in the province. This mosque represents both the pride and the conservatism.

I’d passed the gates several times and they are not very welcoming to non-believers. Lots of signage about correct dress. Lots of “No”s. A desk full of fairly sullen looking young men. Maybe they are just hot and tired?

So, I got out my sarong and put it on before approaching the gate to show that I knew the requirements and was ready to comply with them. I greeted in Indonesian, checked my boots, thanked them. One worker pointed at the mosque itself and grumbled, “No” and then pointed at the open plaza and grunted, “Yes.” It wasn’t just the heat.

The plaza / forecourt is pretty amazing though.

The system of massive parasols is really something to see.

The local high school boys always want to chat and have a pic or two.

So, I circled the main building and observed the various entrances. There was a big sign at each one in English about no shoes or slippers. But, that kinda goes without saying. And, they take them at the gate.

Just roving. Plenty to see outside. But, hot!

People seemed to just be wandering in and out, socializing, praying, taking group photos as souvenirs of the trip. Pretty much the same as any other mosque. It was between prayer times, so nothing to disturb.

I had noticed one guy around my age walking back and forth along one side of the building but not going in. No uniform of religious clothing, just jeans and a t-shirt, but he seemed to be in the know. Not a tourist. Maybe he was a driver for visiting family or group?

I approached as our paths crossed (again) in front of the men’s ablution area, and asked:

Me: “Bapak permisi, kalau saya mencuci (gestures to face, hands, and feet) bolehkah saya masuk di dalam masjid?” “Excuse me sir, if I wash (gestures to face, hands, and feet) may I enter the mosque?”

Him: “Boleh,” with a nod and welcoming gesture towards the door.

So, I did and I did. And, nobody really cared. Sit quietly out of the way. Walk slowly. Take a few pictures without invading anyone’s privacy. All good.

Mosqboni. It is a lot of floor area with a lot of traffic to keep spotless.

There was not a strict area division by gender. Maybe only during prayer? Maybe not at all? No high partitions. Different from Medan.

Last pic as I am literally shown the door.

It all ground to a halt as one of the sweepers approached me–in English. Her: “You? Muslim? No!” Points to door. I explain in Indonesian, that I am not Muslim. But that I had been told it was OK if I prepared/washed. Nobody else had been fussed. Several clearly observant men based on their clothing had nodded. I’d been inside for 10 minutes or so. Me: “Orang di depan pintu berkata kalau saya mencuci saya boleh masuk.” Gestures at proper sarong, hands, face, and feet. “Saya sudah mencuci.” “The person at the door said if I washed I could come in.” “I’ve washed.” Her: “You? Muslim? No!” Points to door. “You? Muslim? No!” Points to door. Me: Turns to the door, moves towards it, and she heads off.

Interesting linguistic interaction where she pretended not to understand my Indonesian which had previously been comprehensible to others. In fact, spoke no Indonesian to me at all, but just emitted this set English phrase.

Paused to take that last photo. The sweeper wasn’t really interested in chasing me. The challenge had been made, and that was that. I probably could have sidled over and lingered a bit longer, but I’d seen all I needed to. Also, the high school boys outside had met up with their female classmates and one of them offered me some snacks!

Time to go check out and hop on the next boat.