First stops: Haneda, Changi, Chinatown, Court, and Ferry (Days 1-3)

Late arrival at Changi after a super strong headwinds added 45 minutes to our flight time. That is some crazy strong wind. I could see the next stop and where my beach side hotel will be as we approached at sunset. S’pore is easy. Get the Tourist Card and hop on the MRT to Chinatown and the Mono Hotel, which was nothing special but OK.

I was up before dawn. Walked a bit around 7 or so. Nothing in the neighborhood. Singapore is not like other southeast Asian cities I am used to. Or, maybe just the area. Nobody out making the most of the cool hours. Things open later. No quick Chinese noodle breakfast in Chinatown. (I later learned on my way out that I had missed the big hawker center at Maxwell where people get early eats.

My usual MO in a city is to just walk a lot. Central Singapore isn’t great for this. My only goal for this visit was the National Museum, but that does not open until 10. Was already getting hot on the sidewalk at the bus stop at 9. But, hop on the bus anyway. Double-decker with an open row at the front on the upper level. Why not? I just rode it to the end of the line. Bus 145 to Toa Payoh Interchange. This was a great way to see whole stretches of the city I had never seen. Colonial buildings and churches interspersed with wild architecture of towers gave way to Bugis, Mosques, Arab Street, then way out to suburbs and huge construction projects. Good for people watching as the passengers waiting to board at each stop changed along the route.

Woman behind me has Wet Leg as her ringtone so it was on repeat with every incoming call. Managed my first overheard and understood conversation in Malay. Not much, but “Satu lagi” says one guy to his companion and they did get off at the next stop. Cooler out at the end of the line by the coast, then back on the same bus to court.

And by court I mean the old Supreme Court and some great art. The building itself is magnificent. Even if there was nothing to see inside, it would be worth a visit. The way they repurposed and enclosed the complex of colonial stone in glass is something to experience.

Very few adults in the museum, but loads of school kids in groups. Listened in on some of what the teachers were saying about the exhibit, “Siapa Nama Kamu?” (What is your name?) Even heard them leading these little mostly Chinese kids in “Nama saya…” Docents were friendly and one woman talked with me about her brother who teaches photography at a college and what he had told her about some of the photos.

Noodle for lunch, finally, at a famous “First Hawker To Get a Michelin Star” restaurant. They may have gotten one, but I do not think they held onto it. It was alright. Later in the evening for snack at the Indian Mexican restaurant. Passed on the tacos, but the onion bhaji and veg raita were excellent. May be a while before Indian food again.

Ridiculously early to the Tanah Merah Ferry terminal because MRT and bus would take a while and Gojek had rejected my first card. So, go early on the MRT because if I wait too long and Gojek kicks me to the curb, I’ll miss the boat. Worked after all, so cafe, kaya toast, two soft boiled eggs and mediocre coffee with mediocre wifi, but enough to post this.

Singapore is alright if you like malls. I’ve been here before with people to see and the places they would take me. The hawker centers are awesome with a group, but as a solo diner you just cannot take advantage of the sheer variety. The malls. I went in two trying and failing to get my Japanese bank cards to work and trying and failing to get the best sim card I need. If you like malls, its great. I don’t.

But, this liminal step on my way was perfect. Already slowing down. No data for my phone. No podcasts on the commute. Brief social media on hotel wifi, but not much. Oh, and since it was even hotter in the afternoon, another bus ride. Just pick a random bus with that empty front row up top and ride. Hop off at the Muslim cemetery I’d spotted early. Hop on another bus. End of a different line going past different residential neighborhoods. Different construction sites. Same beautiful big sky. Slowing down. Didn’t even look at my phone for the 45 minutes back to the hotel back from Bedok Inter from the 197. Just watch things glide by into the sunset. Nothing to do. Nowhere to be. Just perfect. Slowing down.